Blog

As you become more skilled at soldering you may find that the number you have been setting you temperature control on no longer works the same.

Things that affect the temperature are:

1. voltage of your iron

2. speed at which you solder

3. size of area or seam you are soldering

4. cleanliness and overall condition of the tip.

So I am referring to #2. As you get faster, your iron will operate differently.

You temperature controller is similar to a dimmer switch. By dialing the control to a higher or lower setting, more or less electricity is fed to the iron. This increases or decreases the iron temperature.

The numbers on the dial are a reference scale to indicate higher or lower temperature settings.

To begin, adjust the dial to the "50" setting. Wait approximately 15 minutes. If the solder flows quickly into a smooth puddle, your iron is probably operating at the correct temperature. Adjust accordingly. As you become faster, you may have to set the temperature control to a higher number as you are releasing the heat faster.

For more info on "how to solder like a pro" go to the following address.

http://www.inlandcraft.com/howto/pdf/htsold.pdf

We often get asked why the solder at the hardware store cannot be used in stained glass. The solder stained glass stores sell is different than common solder you might find in your garage or at the hardware store. Normally that solder is rosin core or acid core solder. If you use these you will end up with a scum mess.

You want solder that is 1/8" in diameter. Most are a mixture of tin and lead. The mix is designated by two numbers. The first number always refers to the % of tin, the second is the % of lead. The most used solders in stained glass are 60/40 (60% tin/40% lead) 50/50 and 63/37. "Lead-free" solders have no number designation and are a mix of tin and small amounts of other metals. Also look for "pure" solders--free of impurities. You will spend less but you will get scum as you solder and ruin your iron tip. It also interferes with patina.

60/40 melts at 374 degrees and becomes solid when it cools to 361 degrees. That means you have a working range of 13 degrees. This is your best choice for copper foil work. The liquid temperature and narrow working range make it easy to form and maintain consistent high, rounded, beaded seams.

50/50 melts at 421 degrees and is solid at 361 so has a working range of 60 degrees. This solder will produce a much flatter bead than 60/40. Because of its higher melting point, 50/50 is often used on the back (or inside) of a stained glass project to protect against "melt through" when soldering the front. Because it spreads and flattens out, 50/50 is often used when soldering lead joints.

63/37. Melts at 361 degrees and becomes solid at 361. No working range! This solder is also known as decorative or quick set solder. It is great to bead up the ourside rim of copper foiled pieces. It is used to create dimensional effects in the solder itself and can be manipulated to produce a vaiety of textures and designs.

Lead-Free melts and cools depending on the mix of metals. It performs similar to 50/50. This should be used for pieces that will contact food, that will be handled frequently or will be where a child could touch it.

Did you ever have a project that seemed to grow after it was foiled or leaded? A special type of scrissors called pattern shears solves this problem. They have three blades. The center blade removes a strip of pattern material as you cut out the pattern. This compensates for the thickness of the lead or foil which will be placed between the glass pieces.

One of our customers, Carmela was in the store with her little 3 year old boy, Matao. She was down in the classroom and saw these slumped bottles. She said, "I want to learn how to flatten bottles". Matao says "you take that hammer and you KNOCK em down"! Now there is a child that can connect the dots! We do have the directions on this blog. Clock on fusing and scroll down to slumping bottles. It was published on Octboer 21st, 2011.

To make the heart bottom left, use four 1x1" bevels and 2-2" half circles. You can also make it large by using 4- 1 1/2x 1 1/2 bevels and 2-3" half circles. The large heart in the center is made with 1-1x1" bevel, 4-1x2 bevels, and 2-3" half circles. The heart on the bottom right is made with 1-2x2" bevel and 2-2" half circles. You can also make this one large by using 1-4x4" bevel and 1-4" half circle. Word to the wise. If you use copper foil, be prepared to patina your solder copper. If you don't, the copper from the inside of the tape will show through. If you don't want to use copper patina, use black back foil and patina it black or use silver back foil and leave it silver. A variation of these hearts is to replace the half ciricles with red or pink glass.

Stained Glass Express has Three Business Discount Levels.

The Jewel Level: You turn in proof that you are a professional in the art glass industry. This can be that you are a member of an art glass guild that we can see on line. It can be that you have a yellow page ad or your work is in galleries. Or you can show us invoices where you have purchased from wholesalers. This level gives you 15% off product that is not already discounted. If you purchase $500 during the year you maintain your discount level. If you buy $700 or more, you move up to the next level.

The Crystal Level: You become a Crystal level customer by turning in a retailer certificate or by moving up from the Jewel level. This does not make you tax exampt with us but it means you are turning in sales tax information to the State of Maine. (on line customers from other States, let us know what the equivalent is) The Crystal level gives you a 20% discount at Stained Glass Express. If at the end of the year you have purchased $700 at SGE you maintain your discount level for the next year. If you do not, you go to the jewel level or lose it. If you purchase $900 during the year you move to the Diamond Level.

The Diamond Level: You become a Diamond level customer by turning in a resale certificate or by moving up from the Crystal Level. (again on line out of State people, tell us your State's equivalent) This level gives you a 30% discount. If you purchase $900 during the year you maintain your Diamond Level. If you purcahse less than $900 but more than $700 you become a Crystal Level. Less than $700 but more than $500 you become a Jewel Level. Less than $500 there are no discounts other than sales.

These levels are evaluated each January. If you joined a level during the year you have until the January of the next full year. Sales are counted January to December. The amount is figured on the net amount of your sale not the retail.

Please be sure you let the sales person know you are in our database that they they will put he sale with your name and your sales get counted toward your discount level.

If you are an on line customer, unfortunately we have not figured out how to make our on line software do this yet. However, we would program into our Point of Sale Software and when we check you out, the discount is automatically given.

Have no fear if you do not have a kiln, you can rent space in our kiln. Step 1. Drink the wine! No problem with that step right? Step 2. Make sure the bottle is clean and dry inside and out. Step 3. Apply Spray A to the side of the bottle that will facing up in the kiln. Be sure there is no spray A on the bottom as it won't brun off against the shelf. Spray A is very finly ground glass suspended in a medium that burns off clean. It not only helps prevent devitrification (a scummy layer that can appear on the glass after it is fired), it will also help to keep any painted labels that may be on the bottle from burning off during the firing process. Step 4. Use a kiln shelf that has been coated with kiln wash or covered with fiber paper. Leave enough room around each bottle to accommodate the spread as the bottles flatten out. Step 5. Kilns are different, so make adjustments as necessary for you kiln. 300 dph (degrees per hour) to 1100, then soak for 30 minutes (this allows the glass, shelf and air to reach equal temperatures) 400 dph to 1450 soak for 10 minutes or until the bottle is flat.. (take a peek) Step 6. Cool AFAP (as fast as possible) to 1050 d. We don't suggest you open the lid because of the potential to thermal shock the glass. If your kiln doesn't have a controller, turn the power off until the temperature reaches 1050. Cooling quickly through the 1200 to 1350 range also helps to emininate devitrification. Step 7. Hold at 1050 for 1 hour and then cool 100 dph to 400. the annealing temperature for bottles is somewhere between 1050-850 so you want to go slowly through this range. That's it. . . you have made a great gift! Add a cheese know tied with a piece of raffia to really kick it up! You can also paint with glass paint, use decals, sandblast designs--use your imagination! We will slump your bottle for you for $10. You must have it all prepared.