Blog / tips and tricks

I originally wrote this blog in 2013. I am not sure why we used this picture of unrelated glass, but I was way younger so I'm keeping it.   Lampworking is also called flame working or torch working or bead making. All those words make sense to the process except Lampworking which is the official name of the process. So, I looked it up. It is called lampworking because way back when this process started, they did it by oil-fueled lamps while blowing air into the flame through a pipe. So, there you go! This type of glasswork is where a torch is primarily used to melt the glass. Once it is molten, it is formed by shaping with tools and hand movements. Lampworking is different from glassblowing in that glassblowing uses a furnace called a glory hole as the primary heat source. The methods today use torches that burn propane or natural gas for the fuel. It is mixed with air or pure oxygen as the oxidizer. MAPP gas in portable canisters can be used.

Intermediate / Advanced

How To:

Frame Stained Glass Panels using Zinc Came

"Came" is a channel made from a variety of metals and is available in various shapes. The two most commonly used metals used to manufacture came are lead and zinc. We carry multiple sizes of both Zinc Came and Lead Came on our website. Zinc Came is available in different widths. The wider the width, the stronger it is. Zinc Came is rigid and can be a challenge to cut. It lends itself well to geometric shapes. When used as a border for a stained glass panel, it will provide a nice clean, strong edge to that panel. Choose a width based on the look of your piece as well as the size. “U” Came / Capping Came is easier to work with but has little strength. Materials & Tools Needed:

1. Your Stained Glass Panel
2. Your choice of Zinc Came
3. Your choice of hangers (we show Handy Hangers in this tutorial)
4. Ceiling Tile or equivalent heat resistant work surface
5. Push Pins (Straight Edges – Optional)
6. Sharpie
7. Ruler / Measuring Tool
8. Fine toothed Hack Saw or Came Saw (Miter Box – Optional)
9. Metal File
10. (Masking or Electrical Tape - Optional)
11. Soldering Iron, Stand, and Damp Sponge
12. 60/40 Solder
13. Flux and Flux Brush

Note: Click on photos to view them larger!

Note: Steps will not always happen in order, especially measuring and cutting. You will be going back and forth!

Measuring the Came: Cut a short piece (1” to 2”) of your Came to use as a marking gauge. Lay it over another piece of came (both pieces are laying on their side as though they were on a finished piece!) and mark the width of the gauge (both sides) onto the gauge came. Draw a diagonal from corner to corner of these marks. This will give you a 45° line to cut on.

Making an accurate mitered edge

Place a length of came on the bottom edge of your panel. Place your mitered gauge next to it so the end of the center channel lines up with the end of the glass panel. Mark the 45° angle onto the frame came piece.

Using gauge came to measure and mark frame cameAfter cutting, you can see the center channel lines up with the end of the glass panel

Cutting the Came: Note: After all this, you may find that a Miter Box will simplify this process! Place the blade of your saw over the cut line and saw straight down. Let the saw blade do the work, do not force the cut. Cut all sides and make allowances for hangers. Dress each cut with a file to remove any burrs and to fine tune the angle that you cut.

Filing the came

Look at that beautifully fitted mitered edge!

Hangers, Part 1: Plan ahead for what type of hanger you will use. We recommend Handy Hangers, which require a tiny modification to the top piece of zinc came. See the three-step photo below that shows a small notch filed off the top piece. When dry-fit together, the Handy Hanger will slide down into the side piece of zinc through that notch (note that it is shown flat in the second picture, and is then rotated sideways in the third photo to fit into the side.) Making room for a Handy Hanger Soldering the Zinc Came Frame: NOTE: Soldering Zinc requires more heat than copper foil. Dry fit the sides to your stained glass panel and secure in place with pins.

(Popsicle Sticks can be used as shims under the glass, if tipping is noticed.)

NOTE: Tape can be used to control/contain the solder. (If used, the tape must be stuck to the zinc prior to the flux application.) NOTE: Flux should be applied 1 joint at a time for best results. Side 1 : Solder each edge joint (all that are touching the side of the zinc came), working all the way around the 4 sides until all of the intersecting joints are soldered to the zinc came. Hangers, Part 2 : If using Handy Hangers, tin them and slide them into the notch you created. If using another hanging method, either make or prepare (modify) the hangers to fit into the vertical zinc channels. Tin the hangers and place them into the channels. They will be soldered in place at the same time as the corners are done. Corners : Apply a small amount of solder, using the chisel edge of the soldering iron, directly over the corner seam. Keep applying small amounts of solder in this manner until you see that it has penetrated the seam.

Details of angled soldering iron and finished and unfinished joints

Side 2: Carefully flip your panel and repeat the same process as Side 1. Finishing: Clean the panel thoroughly. If needed, oooo Steel Wool can be used on the Zinc Came to brighten it or remove oxidation caused by the flux. If you Patina your panel, your best results will be achieved by using “JAX” Pewter Black. Wax and hang. Cleaners and Polishing (stainedglassexpress.com) Note: Completed panels can be heavy. Use a chain or cable that will easily support its weight. Sources: Everything Stained Glass – Molly Frances Ezine Articles – Maurine Summy Living Sun Glass – Samantha Calder James A Veilleux Researched, Interpreted and Arranged By: James A Veilleux 04/05/2023

(example is from C Rhodes Glass Art on Esty) Don' you love how your piece looks when it is foiled before it is soldered? That shiny copper foil just sparkles. Why, oh why then, is it so hard to get copper patina to look as good as the copper foil. The simple answer is tarnish! A beautiful patina finish is always about how the metal is prepared and cleaned before you apply the patina. So here are a couple of tricks we use at Stained Glass Express to get that professional look for copper patina. 1. After soldering, clean your piece with patina and flux remover. Then rinse well with tap water. Dry all the solder lines with a paper towel so there is no tap water left on the piece. 2. When the piece is dry, mix a solution of 3 parts distilled water and 1 part ammonia. Scrub the solder lines and joints with fine steel wool (0000) dipped in the ammonia solution. Scrub until all of the solder is a consistent satin finish silver. 3. Dry the piece with a paper towel. It is important at this point not to use tap water because the additives or minerals in the water may react with the patina. 4. Dip a paper towel into the patina and rub it all over the piece to cover the solder lines. The patina should come out very shiny. If there are spots that are not shiny, that means there is still tarnish on the solder in those places. Repeat the process over those spots to correct the problem. 5. Dry the solder lines and the glass with another dry paper towel. Immediately apply polishing compound and follow the manufacturer's directions for the product.

It is caused by flux boiling through the solder you’re laying down. That’s why you notice it more on the second side of a project – by then you have sealed off the other side, it can’t splatter out the back. As you may have guessed, the best thing you can do to limit this is use less flux.

The other possibility is that your soldering iron is hotter than necessary and causing more boiling. If you are sure you’re not using too much flux, try putting a temperature control on your iron.

Submitted by Wanda Shorty from an old issue of Stained Glass News

Do you have trouble cutting a straight line? If you do, try a tracking head.  If you already own a nice Toyo glass cutter and you want to change your head to a tracking head, that is also possible.  An important thing to know is that it is NOT good for cutting curves, so you might want one cutter with a tracking head and one without.  

Q: When I fuse my projects, sometimes I get medium to small bubbles. What causes them and how can I prevent them? A: Bubbles can be caused by many different things. First, uneven stacking of glass can result in air trapped between layers. To prevent this from occurring, check the placement of all the glass pieces and insure they are sitting properly on the base. Since the edges of the glass fuse before the center of the glass, cut your base glass 1/8” larger than the top layer to allow air to escape. Second, check the glass prior to fusing. Some glass may already have contained bubbles inside the glass, which may or may not affect the outcome. Q: After I fuse my pendants, I get uneven areas around the edges. What’s happening with the glass? A: You did not fire it long enough or to a high enough temperature for a full fuse. Try firing for a little longer time. Q: Sometimes my glass pieces look like a porcupine with spiky edges. What causes the glass to spike? A: Spiky edges can be caused by over-firing your piece. The spiked edges are caused by the glass grabbing as it is trying to shrink. Q: What caused my layered glass pieces to flatten? A: If the glass piece has flattened out too much, you have over fired the piece. To prevent this from happening, reduce your power and shorten your time. After your first firing, open the microwave and using Fireworks Hot Mitts™; carefully lift the lid to inspect the fuse piece. If the desired results have not been achieved, continue firing in 30 seconds intervals. Q: I tried to make a 1 inch pendant with embellishments, however after I finished fusing, the glass shrunk. How can I prevent this from happening the next time? A: Glass naturally wants to be ¼ inch thick when heated. Your glass will shrink or expand to obtain this depth. A good tip to remember is that if your piece is less than ¼ inch when you start, it will shrink up to reach this depth. If your piece is larger than ¼ inch when you start, it will want to flatten out to reach this depth. Q: What causes two pieces of dichroic or iridized glass to blow apart in the kiln? A: Repelling glass will occur with dichroic and iridized coatings. The coatings can’t be placed together for fusing purposes, because they repel each other. The only way to avoid this is to encase the coated glass with a non-coated glass, such as clear. This will cause the coated glass to be encased and sealed. Q: Yuck, this film appeared on my fused glass. What is it and how can I prevent this from happening? A: This dull white crystalline substance on the surface of your glass is known as devitrification. This is one of the most talked about glass fusing problems around. It can occur when your glass remains in a temperature range 1000ºF-1300ºF too long. You need to minimize the time spent in this temperature range. Gray or Scummy Edges - Gray or scummy edges can occur on pieces that have been fired once and then cold worked before refiring. Cold working involves using either a grinder or glass saw on a piece of glass. These can be avoided by thoroughly cleaning the glass before refiring the piece. Keep a bowl of clean water near your work area and soak the glass right after doing the cold work procedure. This will keep the edges damp and allow the piece to be cleaned easier. Scrub completely and let dry before proceeding with the refiring process. Q: My glass cracked! What happened? A: Cracking glass either during or after firing can be caused by a several things: thermal shock, heating up the glass too fast and compatibility. Thermal shock occurs either by taking the piece out of the kiln too soon, or by opening the kiln and exposing the hot glass to cool air. If the glass cracked in the kiln and it has an “S” shaped crack, the piece has heated too quickly. Slow down! Finally, if the crack occurs along the line where the two pieces of glass meet, then the two touching pieces are not compatible. Make sure the glass you are using have the same COE (coefficient of expansion). Q: How can I prevent my glass from shattering? A: Glass Shattering in pieces over 1” with more than 1 layer may sometimes shatter. To prevent this from occurring, reduce the power. This will allow the glass to heat slower and will be less likely to shatter. Next, make sure your glass is clean and dry before firing. Q: My fusing instructions say to clean my glass before firing, can I use a glass cleaning spray or detergent? A: We don’t recommend it. Detergents, dish soaps, multi-purpose cleaners, some window cleaners, ammonia and even denatured alcohol should NOT be used to clean glass. These can actually promote devitrification. We suggest diluted white vinegar or rinsing your glass with distilled water. Q: Every time I put my fuse glass project together, the pieces roll off before I can get it to the microwave. What can I do to prevent this from happening? A: To hold your fusing project together, mix one drop of glue. Apply a very thin amount on the back of the glass using a brush and allow the glue to dry thoroughly before firing.