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We often get asked why the solder at the hardware store cannot be used in stained glass. The solder that stained glass stores sell is different than common solder you might find in your garage or at the hardware store. Normally that solder is rosin core or acid core solder. If you use these, you will end up with a scum mess.

You want solder that is 1/8" in diameter. Most are a mixture of tin and lead. The mix is designated by two numbers. The first number always refers to the % of tin, the second is the % of lead. The most used solders in stained glass are 60/40 (60% tin/40% lead) 50/50 and 63/37. "Lead-free" solders have no number designation and are a mix of tin and small amounts of other metals. Also look for "pure" solders--free of impurities. You will spend less but you will get scum as you solder and ruin your iron tip. It also interferes with patina.

60/40 melts at 374 degrees and becomes solid when it cools to 361 degrees. That means you have a working range of 13 degrees. This is your best choice for copper foil work. The liquid temperature and narrow working range make it easy to form and maintain consistent high, rounded, beaded seams.

50/50 melts at 421 degrees and is solid at 361 so has a working range of 60 degrees. This solder will produce a much flatter bead than 60/40. Because of its higher melting point, 50/50 is often used on the back (or inside) of a stained-glass project to protect against "melt through" when soldering the front. Because it spreads and flattens out, 50/50 is often used when soldering lead joints.

63/37. Melts at 361 degrees and becomes solid at 361. No working range! This solder is also known as decorative or quick set solder. It is great to bead up the outside rim of copper foiled pieces. It is used to create dimensional effects in the solder itself and can be manipulated to produce a variety of textures and designs.

Both pictures below are from Pinterest. 

Lead-Free melts and cools depending on the mix of metals. It performs similar to 50/50. This should be used for pieces that will contact food, that will be handled frequently or will be where a child could touch it.

To make the heart shown, use four 1x1" bevels and 2-2" half circles. You can also make it large by using 4- 1 1/2x 1 1/2 bevels and 2-3" half circles. The large heart in the center is made with 1-1x1" bevel, 4-1x2 bevels, and 2-3" half circles. The heart on the bottom right is made with 1-2x2" bevel and 2-2" half circles. You can also make this one large by using 1-4x4" bevel and 1-4" half circle. Word to the wise. If you use copper foil, be prepared to patina your solder copper. If you don't, the copper from the inside of the tape will show through. If you don't want to use copper patina, use black back foil and patina it black or use silver back foil and leave it silver. A variation of these hearts is to replace the half circles with red or pink glass.

To see more Easy- To -Make hearts put ikh in the search bar of the website. 

I just went to the retail display where we keep pliers.  There were 7 different ones.  So many pliers—so many uses!  Or just a little difference, like the width of the jaws that someone might prefer.  

Your first plier should be a breaker/grozer. Double duty! Their primary function is to grasp the glass securely on one side of a score when breaking it apart. Both jaws have serrated teeth to assist in their second duty, grozing.

Second pair you should buy is probably a running plier. This plier is designed to apply pressure under a score causing the break to follow (run) along the score line. Metal ones have the advantage of being adjustable for the thickness of the glass you are working with. Plastic also available.

Breakers. These have straight jaws and are designed to grasps the glass to assist in breaking long thin pieces of glass. The wide jaws meet only at the tip and not serrated.

Search: 30 results found for "pliers" – Stained Glass Express

Plugging a soldering iron into a rheostat (or temperature controller) does NOT reduce the temperature. It reduces the amount of electricity coming in but doesn't change the temperature the iron will heat up to. It will just take longer to heat up. It's the same as the tap on your sink. Turning the tap down will make the water come in slower, but the water will still fill up your sink. It'll just take longer to fill up.

1. Basic Concept of a Rheostat:

• A rheostat is a variable resistor. It adjusts the resistance in a circuit, which in turn controls the current flow.
• By increasing the resistance, the current flowing through the circuit decreases, which reduces the power delivered to the soldering iron.
• Conversely, reducing the resistance increases the current flow, increasing the power to the soldering iron and therefore the temperature.

2. Operation with a Soldering Iron:

• Input Voltage: When a soldering iron is plugged into the rheostat, the device controls how much of the mains voltage reaches the iron.
• Power Control: Turning the rheostat's dial changes its resistance, altering the amount of current flowing through to the soldering iron’s heating element.
  • Higher Resistance = Less Power = Lower Temperature.
  • Lower Resistance = More Power = Higher Temperature.

The most popular iron right now is Hakko Fx601.  It comes with an internal thermostat.  A thermostat automatically maintains a set temperature.  That makes it way easier to learn to solder with a nice line.  If you don't have to constantly adjust for your temperature you will have an easier time.  

Not that there are not reasons for an iron with a rheostat.  One is price.  Not everyone wants to pay over $100 for an iron when they are first learning.  This person can buy an inexpensive 100-watt iron and hook it up to a rheostat and find out if they like the hobby. 

100 Watt Pro Soldering Iron – Stained Glass Express

Stained Glass Express