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I recently visited The Charles Hosmer Morse Museum. It was my third trip, so that tells you something. The bonus was that I took my adult daughter, Soo, and she absolutely loved it. It is in Winter Park, Florida, just north of Orlando. Winter Park is a college town and has delightful shops and wonderful restaurants. We sat on the street and had broiled oysters with cheese and luscious drinks. It is the most comprehensive collection of the works of Louis Comfort Tiffany. Things you can see are Daffodils, the Four Season, Pumpkins and Beets. The glass is just unbelievable. Tiffany would make the glass for the piece that was being made so it is amazing. In addition to these individual works are two complete rooms from the Tiffany estate. The Tiffany Chapel is breathtaking. Laurelton Hall’s Daffodil Terrace, Reception hall, living room, dining room and smoking room. Price of admission? Most Fridays free. Other days $6.00 and less. If you are in Florida, don’t miss it.

All credit for this blog entry goes to Bethlehem Burners. This is from their website. Helpful Tips from Bethlehem Tip # 1: Do not use force when cleaning your torch. Using extra force when cleaning your hypo tubes may cause internal damage to the torch. Such as scraping or breaking the hypo tubes which can lead to internal premixing. Only use gentle strokes and only use smooth wires. Cleaning wires with barbs or deep ridges on them will scrape and scratch the inside of the torch hypo tubes, weakening them over time. If you cannot clear an obstruction with the cleaning wires provided, please call us for assistance. (610) 838-7034 Tip # 2: Heat Tint Bethlehem Burners uses 303 stainless steel for the burner faceplates and torch barrels. Stainless steel develops a tint or coloring when the metal is exposed to heat and air. Heat tint found at the face and around the front of the torch barrel is to be expected and will darken with continued use. This discoloring is normal and purely cosmetic. Tip # 3: Removing Heat Tint Removing heat tint is not required maintenance for proper torch use. If the flame worker would like to remove the heat tint, simply rub a plastic dish-scrubbing pad (Scotch Brite) in a circular motion, until the heat tint has been removed. DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL. Steel wool will scratch the metal of the torch. Tip # 4: DO NOT SHOCK YOUR TORCH. Placing a hot torch face in cold water to “shock” trapped glass free from the torch will weaken the torches connection sites. Metal expands and contrasts when heated and cooled, therefore any connection site on the torch formed by fusing metals together, will become weakened if the metals have been heated and then cooled rapidly (shocked). Tip # 5: Do not use wires to remove glass Do not use the provided wires to remove glass. If glass becomes lodged inside the torch ports, please contact Bethlehem Apparatus for expert advice on how to remove the glass. (610) 838-7034 Tip # 6: Ask us about your torch! If you find yourself questioning what to do about your torch, give us a call and we will be glad to help! (610) 838-7034 TORCH CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS The working life of a Bethlehem torch is greatly enhanced when properly cleaned. Removal of carbon deposits on the face of the burner will prevent hot spots and deliver a clean particle free flame. Our new Stainless steel torches (Alpha, Bravo, Champion) have more oxygen ports in proportion to gas ports. This prevents carbon build-up; therefore these models do not require cleanings as often as our previous models. Step 1. Shutoff torch and allow cooling down for 10 minutes. Step 2. Gently brush the torch face in a back and forth and up and down motion for about 6 minutes. Step 3. Clean gas & oxygen ports with the two wires provided. Using the small wire for the smaller oxygen ports and the larger wire for the larger gas ports, located on the front face of the torch. The pentagon shaped center fire has 6 thin walled stainless steel hypo tubes. The hypo tubes deliver gas and the surrounding ports deliver the oxygen. NEVER USE COPPER, GLASS STRINGERS, TOOTH PICKS, OR ANY OBJECT THAT CAN BREAK AND CLOG THE PORT. Step 4. Turn on the torch with a lot of gas and oxygen and hit the underside of the torch with the supplied wooden dowel (never use a hard object to jar out any dust and carbon that may have entered the gas and or the oxygen ports during steps 1 and 2. Step 5. Shutoff torch and allow cooling for 10 minutes. Step 6. Brush torch face again, same as step 2. Step 7. Turn on torch with a lot of gas and oxygen and hit the underside of the torch to jar out any dust and carbon that may have entered the gas or oxygen ports during the brushing and wire cleaning cycle. Step 8. Shutoff torch, torch is now all clean and ready for your next days work.

SO MANY PLIERS! When customers are new to stained glass, it can be overwhelming figuring out which tools to buy. As if choosing a soldering iron wasn't complicated enough, something that seems as simple as pliers ought to be easy, right? Maybe not! There are several tools that are used for breaking glass along a score. We suggest beginners start with a combo breaker/grozer. It is like two pliers in one. You can use the pliers to break the glass on the score line. Position the edge of the plier parallel to the score line with the curved jaw on the bottom. Holding the glass on the other side of the score with your hand, snap up/pull the piece apart. (Use a pair of grozing pliers on each side to break narrow pieces.) Once you've cut a piece, small bits that stuck to the score can be "chewed" off with the tips of the pliers. Just nibble those little bits right off to reduce the amount of grinding in your future. Then we suggest a runner. The jaws of a runner are slightly curved to create a fulcrum. There is a line on the tip of plier that you'll lay over the score line. Some runners have an adjustable screw to control pressure; the screw should be on the top side of the pliers (screw points up so you don't screw up!) Squeeze gently to start; you'll feel the score "running" away from you along the cut. The rubber tips eventually get torn up by the sharp glass and it really does make a difference in the pliers' performance. Get reasonably priced replacements here. There are other variations of running pliers that run the gamut of cost and function. The Silberschnitt pictured on the right is a high-end plier designed to be very exact and can break up to 5mm of glass. They can help with inner curves and small glass strips. Some people really like a plain breaker. These pliers have a smooth jaw for snapping the glass apart. They often have a wider jaw than a grozer. What are your go-to tools for breaking glass along a score? Which tool did you wish you had as a beginner?

A friend of mine on Facebook posted this a picture of sandblasted panel that is in his home. He said “do any of you remember the glass artist from Canaan, Me., Fred Tenenbaum? He did this panel." My response was, “I sure do, without Fred, Stained Glass Express would not exist." Time was, we owned a glass store in Winslow, Maine, named Oakes & Parkhurst Glass. It was a full-service glass shop offering commercial glazing, residential glazing, and auto glass. (O&P is now owned and operated by two of our children, Soo and Tobias.) I am not sure of the date but sometime in the early 1980s Fred came to us and asked if we could get stained glass. We brought in a small amount, made a small glass rack, and put it in the corner. As we expanded O&P Glass, we also put a small amount of stained glass and supplies for the stained glass artist/hobbyist in each of the other 5 locations (Belfast, Skowhegan, Farmington, Glenburn, and Manchester). Then in 1988 circumstances prompted us to buy a single location and make it good enough for all our customers to travel to. We bought and renovated a building in Waterville, Maine at 10 Railroad Square. By 2015, our son had bought O&P and the business we were doing in stained glass had totally outgrown that space. We moved to our current property in Manchester which is full floor to ceiling (it feels like!) with stained glass, fusible glass, specialty cabinet glass, tools of all the glass arts and trades, and so much more. All thanks to Fred's simple request 40 years ago! Fred was a very talented artist who did not only sandblasting but copper foil and lead came work. His studio was called Northern Lights Glass Studio. While writing this blog entry, I had not been having luck finding any more pictures of his work and was feeling disappointed. When I handed over the blog to be edited by our new Glass Academy Director, however, she recognized some of the names. (It is such a small world!) Within a few days I had been connected with Fred's widow, Eve. She sent me this photo of Fred's first ever piece, and I was moved to tears. Here is Fred's obituary, published on legacy.com by Central Maine on Jul. 31, 2018: "1941 - 2018 CANAAN - Fred Tenenbaum, 77, of Canaan, died peacefully at home surrounded by his family on July 27, 2018. Fred was born in St. Gallen, Switzerland, on May 14, 1941, and immigrated with his parents to Brooklyn, N.Y., as survivors of the Holocaust. He moved back to the land in Maine in 1970 where he spent nearly 50 years building a home with his wife, Eve, in Canaan. He was an accomplished stained glass artist, creating and restoring windows all over Maine and beyond as Northern Lights Stained Glass. He also taught at the Skowhegan high and technical schools for many years. He loved to garden and travel, he was a true crafts person and was loved dearly by all that knew him. Fred leaves his wife, Eve; daughters Marissa and Aliza, sons-in-law Rob and Mike; and four grandchildren." Edited on August 9, 2022 to add a photo of Fred's window at the Skowhegan Town Office and several other photos of his work, generously shared by Eve: Edited on October 24, 2022 to add more photos of Fred's beautiful work:

One of the most confusing issues in the industry is mold prep. Part of this confusion has come from the elimination of some products and the decision on what to substitute. One of the recent questions I've had (and hear often) is What the difference is between the Hotline primers? These are used on your kiln shelves and some molds. Here's a breakdown: The Original Used according to directions, shelf primer is the best insurance that your fused work will not stick to the kiln shelf. It's a high temperature, low-fluxing clay and alumina mixture formulation which contains suspension agents and a color-coded dye that burns off at 800 degrees F (427 degrees C). Primo Primer Hotline Primo Primer fires to 1550 degrees F (843 degrees C) and higher. Glass does not stick to the shelf. Primer does not stick to the glass. It removes from shelf after firing by brushing or by wiping with a damp sponge. No more tedious and messy scraping. Packed in easy access plastic containers. Hi-Fire A special formulation of alumina and low-fluxing clays developed to withstand the high kiln temperatures required for raking. Contains a dye which burns off when firing. It leaves an excellent smooth finish between the glass and kiln shelf. Hi-Fire Shelf Primer is also excellent for coating mandrels for beadmaking. HOW TO PREPARE DIFFERENT TYPES OF MOLDS Bullseye Molds Can generally be prepped with kiln wash/primer. Colour de Verre Molds You can tell if you have a Colour de Verre mold because they put their name into the mold on the underside. These can be primed with Hotline Primo Primer or ZYP. Colour de Verre has some great information about preparing molds with Primo Primer and with Zyp. Creative Paradise Molds Creative Paradise recommends that you use MR97/ZYP for their molds. You can tell if your mold is from Creative Paradise because it says CPI right on the underside of the mold. Do not use Slide or kiln wash. Stainless Steel Molds FIRST: If the mold is new, it might still have the oil on it from production. The oil must be removed. You can simply put the mold in the kiln at the temperature you will be using it and fire with no glass. That will burn off the oil and the mold will also change color. Another method to get the mold ready for priming is to rough up the metal surface to provide texture for the kiln wash to stick to. Sandblaster is best, but if you don’t have access to one you can use 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. To prime, first heat the mold. Put tin foil or a cookie tray on the lid of a kiln while it is firing and put the mold on it. When the mold is heated apply kiln wash with a brush. It may not totally cover on the first coat. Let dry and apply again on the bare spots. Do at least three coats once you have the first total coat. It will be good for several firings. When you must recoat, scrub the mold with warm soapy water and a scrubber. Apply a coat or two of primer, let the primer dry and you are ready to slump.

There is a lot to chat about when it comes to glue in glass fusing. Let’s start with these cute little owls with wonky eyes. They started out with the pupils glued to the white nugget eyes. Since the glue cooks off at about 450F, the eyes just slid off the nuggets and landed where they wanted during firing! Solution? Drill a bit of a hole and the little dots will stay put and you will have sweet little eyes like the one in the second picture (done by Liz Watts of Rocky Coast Treasures). There are many different glues that behave differently and have different uses. Let's take a look at a few! GlasTac Blue Gel This blue gel has a thick viscosity and minimizes slipping even when not dry. GlasTac Pink Use the pink glue on something already set in place. The pink glue is runny and if you squeeze a tiny drop next to the element it will wick under the glass. Aloe Vera This is good for when you don’t want it to “set up”. It keeps pieces stable, but you can keep moving them about. Best to use generics because the name brands have added ingredients that can cause trouble. Hair Spray When do you use hair spray on your hair? When you are done! Same with using it on glass. It is a top-down adhesive. You spray to keep something as you have it, especially little things like fine frit. Buy it cheap with a pump. HoneyDoo Glue A gel consistency with quick set times and a clean bond. It has a stiletto tip nozzle which allows precision. Great for glass fusing. Super New Glue Our favorite super glue here at Stained Glass Express, it is formulated to dry clear. It comes in a tiny bottle so you don't have to worry about it drying out before you get a chance to use it! SOME GLUING TIPS: Put glue close to the edge of the top piece so that it can dry quicker. Stuck to the wrong place? Hopefully you put the glue near the edge! Use a razor blade to carefully scrape at the glue. Superglue that is not specifically designed for fusing may not dry clear and can give off toxic fumes during firing. Here is some helpful info. How do I unstick my fingers? (This section reproduced from How Stuff Works) Let's say you're repairing some broken pottery and before you can say "Whoops," you've glued your index finger to your thumb! The recommended first aid treatment for this is:

1. Scrape off any excess glue. Don't use cloth or tissue -- a chemical reaction between the fabric and glue could potentially cause burns or smoke.
2. Soak the bonded fingers in a bath of warm, soapy water.
3. Don't try forcing the fingers apart, or you'll tear the skin.
4. After soaking, use dull, rounded utensil to carefully wedge the fingers apart.
5. If you see no immediate success with this, drop a little acetone (found in nail polish remover) on the area. Again, try wedging the digits apart.

At first, the thought of someone getting Super glue on his or her mouth seems outlandish. But let's face it a lot of us have a bad habit of using our teeth to wrench or twist off particularly stubborn caps. Say you do that with the top of the tube of glue and, presto, you've given an entirely new meaning to the phrase "zip it." In order to unzip those lips, your options on what to do are a little more limited:

• Since you're dealing with an area on the face, do not use acetone.
• Using a wide coffee cup or bowl, immerse your mouth in hot water.
• You will also want to dampen the bonded skin from the inside of your mouth as much as possible.
• Once you sense a loosening of the grip, use a dull, rounded utensil to wedge your mouth open. Be careful not to force it, or you will tear the skin.

Of course, glue is made for keeping things together; researchers have modified super glue to become less toxic, making it an ideal replacement for stitches (even veterinarians use it!) So if you've got yourself stuck and find the instructions above aren't working, we recommend you seek professional medical help! What's your favorite type of glue for fusing? Have you experienced any kiln disasters that eventually came down the type of glue that was used? Let us know in the comments below!

1. Glastar burned to the ground on October 18th. Glastar is a leading manufacturer of glass-shaping equipment, tools, accessories, and supplies. The warehouse next door exploded, and the fire quickly spread to the Glastar building. No one at Glastar was hurt, however two people were killed and two were injured in the warehouse where the fire started. We do not expect to see any Glastar products soon. Everything that was available, sold out quickly. They still have a Facebook page with no news and the website continues to state, "they will be back soon", but yet no news. The following is a link to the Bing video of the Canoga Park explosion. glastar fire - Bing video
2. The Paul Wissmach Glass Co was sold. On April 1, 2021 Jason Wilburn and Annabelle Javier became the new owners. Mark Feldmeier continued to be actively involved so that is probably why it all happened, and we did not even realize. Wissmach is the second oldest manufacturer having been operating since 1904. This is their new logo:
3. Kokomo seemed to have a rocky year. I was not able to get them directly, but I did get my info from a reliable source. What I heard is that their extremely interesting furnace is now not operating and has been replaced with day furnaces. This is a round furnace with a down draft which I so wish I had seen while it was still operating. Kokomo was founded in 1888, making it the oldest producer of glass in the United States. The transition caused lapses in production, and we have not been able to stock as much as we would like. One of their key personnel retired after returning from a bout with Covid. Apparently Covid took its toll at Kokomo, which also slowed down production because of employees being absent. We have been assured that all is back on track, and we will be seeing more glass!
4. Oceanside also reported some difficulties in 2021. Many people were not happy that the glass is "different". Vince Moiso shared how hard it has been sourcing chemicals. They follow the "recipe", and some glass has come out different, we had some orangey reds and other differences. He also reported that we will be seeing more bubbles in the glass. Even though they do make the glass like Spectrum did, they do not have the long ribbon or glass system that Spectrum had, and the shorter run will create bubbles.
5. On a positive note, Youghiogheny seems to be just smoothy flying along. After purchasing the Uroboros hand rolled sheet process from Oceanside in May of 2020 they continue to add more Uroboros glass to their already amazing lines of Youghiogheny.
6. In general, we have seen unprecedented price increases. These come from increased shipping costs, raw material sourcing issues and increased labor costs. Less product at higher prices.
7. We did see a new line of art glass come on the scene. Artisan Glass is an imported glass that is quite beautiful and reasonably priced. Artisan Glass (stainedglassexpress.com)
8. Tools and supplies have been difficult. In addition to not having any Glastar products, we cannot get Morton products. Some that have been difficult are: spray a, score one plus, didymium glasses (clip-ons), value tools, bevel clusters, fid'l stick, some silver products (earring findings), glass pro silver protector and cleaner, Breda nippers, Hifire, Thinfire, and resin. Some products were difficult for awhile because people could not get packaging for them, like glue. Right now we are waiting on Inland Grinders.

In honor of National Art Glass Month, Stained Glass Express, hosts an annual contest called "Just For Fun Contest". Customers of ours, local artists, and any glass enthusiast can enter the contest under three categories: Stained Glass (Copper foil or lead), Hot/Warm Glass (Fused, Torched, Blown), and lastly Mosaics. All entries are due this year by March 26th, and we display all the entries in our store. We then host a special "Invite Night" exclusive to contest entry participants and guests. This night brings together such talented artists from all over the State of Maine, and with appetizers and refreshments, everyone can connect and enjoy being in the company of people who all share the same interests of glass and art. But most importantly, everyone invited to "Invite Night" gets advantage of the store's biggest sale of the year! Our customer's love this aspect of the contest because the store puts out so much product and glass at a very low price! We also receive amazing donations from our top glass distributors and give everyone who participated a "Swag Bag" full of awesome stuff from each distributor. Everyone involved from the loyal customers to the amazing distributors and the employees who put this on it is truly a special night uniting us all over the love of art and glass! During Invite Night, each person can vote on their favorite entries and the winners selected for each category will receive gift cards to our store. Each year we have an amazing turnout and we cannot wait to see all the entries and how beautifully talented everyone is who submits an entry. Janet Parkhurst, owner of Stained Glass Express stated " It really is the most fun event we do. Not only do you get a present, but you get to hang with people who love what you love, and you get to see amazing artwork."

The biggest question we get about grinder bits is "how long will it last?" Tough one! Depends on how much you use it. A bit can be adjusted up and down, and carefully you can use lots of the surface. Once you get a bare spot, move the bit up or down. Normally your wear will be even all the way around the bit. Occasionally, you will get a bare spot. You can still use the space above and the bare spot. The next biggest question we get is, "how do I get my bit off the shaft?" It's stuck! What you do not want to do is bend your shaft so do this very carefully. We send someone to our classroom every week to take the bits off, rinse them, and put them back on. That keeps the gunk from building up between the bit and the shaft and behaving like it is cement. The only way to get it off is patience! That is a bit tough when you just want to use your grinder. Take some 3 in 1 penetrant, (or any of these chemicals designed to loosen metal), let it set and see if it comes loose. If not, do it again and again and again until it does. In this "there is a gadget for everything" world, there are now different grits. These grits include: XFine, Fine, Medium, and Coarse. The fines are great for when what you are grinding is chipping. Glass with a surface, like mirror or irid for example. In the old days, we saved our old worn regular bit for this. Coarse or speed bits are for when you have quite a lot of glass to grind off. When you get too close to where you want to be you will probably switch back to regular as the coarse is a coarse grind. There are also sizes to get you into smaller spaces: For these bits each manufactures look a bit different, but most are interchangeable. There are also some specialties bits---like a lamp bit. The ripple bit is so you can grind rippled glass and it is smoothed out for foiling. The radius is a combination of flat and a place to round the edges to get rid of a sharp edge. It is used mostly for mosaics. The lamp head allows a nice, angled grind so angled pieces will fit well together. The Quick Fit System has become popular with the new Techniglass Grinders and can be used on other grinders. When the grit wears off you can just buy a replacement sleeve and not the entire fixture.

Info taken from Spectrum Glass System 96 Getting Started with Kiln-fired Glass

1. WHAT IS FUSING

Stacking two or more layers of compatible glass to make a design and then melting it by placing it in a kiln. You can flat fire or slump. Bring the kiln to 1300 - 1500 decrees F to flat fuse. Create a tile, trivet, suncatcher, coaster or art. You can leave your piece flat or slump it into a mold or drape it over a mold to get a 3-D piece such as a bowl, tray, platter or vase. 2. COMPATIBILITY This is very important. Only glass that is compatible can be fused together. Glass expands when it is heated and contracts when it cools. Glass from different manufacturers have their own rate. This is called Coefficient of Expansion (C.O.E.). Most common are 96 and 90. Youghiogheny, Wissmach and Oceanside all produce 96. Bullseye is commonly thought of as 90 but they call themselves Bullseye compatible. 3. TOOLS AND SUPPLIES If you are already doing glass work you may have many of glass cutting tools like a cutter and pliers (breaking, running, grozing). You will also need glue (lots of types available), kiln paper, molds, primer, shelves. brushes. https://www.stainedglassexpress.com/fusing_supplies/ PLANNING YOUR DESIGN You can use a pattern. There are lots and lots available. You can design your own. There are lots of on-line ideas on Pinterest, Instagram and Facebook. Another technique is called Frame Focus, Fill. Create your frame or your base, create a focal point (a central element that draws the eye. The Fibonacci sequence (which our logo is) is a great one to follow. 4. MAKING THE PROJECT There are lots of fun things to add to yur projects called accessory glass. Rods, pebbles, frit, stringers, noodles, ribbons, precuts, dots and millefiori. ASSEMBLE YOUR PROJECT Gluing does help to hold things together until they are in the kiln. Use it sparingly. to keep from using too much apply with toothpick. "Over the counter glues" like Elmers can char if you use too much and "Super Glue" (Not Super New Glue) does not always burn off clear. Klyr-Fire gives you time to work and burns off. GlasTac blue has viscosity and keeps things from slipping when not dry. GlasTac blue can be applied after something is in place. Squeeze a drop next to the element and it will wick under. Super New Glue is great and easy to use. Lots of good options. https://www.stainedglassexpress.com/fusing_supplies/ 5. FIRING Load the Kiln Keep projects 2" from elements The Center is the most evenly heated. Deep or difficult should go there. Most molds have to be elevated on kiln furniture 6. PROGRAM THE KILN With a glass kiln you ramp and hold. Kilns come with a controller where you can program in what you wish. It is a three part. You enter:

• The Ramp. The rate in degrees per hour, that kiln temp will rise or fall during the segment
• The Goal Temp. The temperature the kiln will seek during each segment.
• Hold Time. the number of minutes the kiln will stay at the Goal Temp, once it is reached.

It is wonderful if you can purchase a kiln, but if you cannot, you can rent kiln space at a glass store. BASIC PROGRAMS

• Tack Fuse: glass is joined with little change beyond the softening or rounding of glass edges.
• Contour: The glass edges are soft and rounded, yet the project surfaces retain a degree of dimension.
• Full: Works best on two layer projects containing an even amount of glass on each layer. These will melt together completely and smooth surface.
• Slump: This is a second trip to the kiln and it is taking what you have created and put it in a mold to "slump" into the shape of the mold.

There is MUCH, MUCH, more we could go into but this is just the basics.

Temperature controllers are generally separate units that the iron plugs into. They are small, easy to use and relatively inexpensive.

It operates similar to a light dimmer switch. By dialing the control to a higher or lower setting, more or less electricity is fed to the iron. This increases or decreases the iron temperature, allowing the tip temperature to be controlled.

https://www.stainedglassexpress.com/Glass-Tools/Soldering-Irons-and-Accessories/soldering-iron-temperature-controller.html

Ceramic Heating Element Irons

A temperature control/iron combination offers you greater control and flexibility than a temperature controlled tip iron when working with different metals and solder mixes. Look for one that is at least 80 watts. Since the flow of electricity to the tip is consistent and never completely stops, encounters with cold spots are nearly eliminated.

Hakko Soldering Iron FX 601 (stainedglassexpress.com)

These irons are relatively new to the stained glass trade. They are made with highly efficient ceramic heating elements. Like a ceramic room heater, they produce a consistent temperature using less electrical wattage during operation. When initially heating and when reheating during "recovery" periods, they can draw a "burst" of power exceeding100 watts and then efficiently reduce electrical consumption, often below 60 watts, during the soldering process. The result is efficiency and economy.

A remarkable feature of ceramic heater irons is they generally reach operating temperature in less than 60 seconds. Of the three types of irons, the ceramic heater type best maintains consistent tip temperature.

Irons with Temperature Controlled Tips

These irons are supplied with an internal regulator in the tip that does not allow the iron to exceed a predetermined temperature. An example would be a 600°F tip. The iron heats to that temperature then "shuts off." When heat is required, the iron "turns on" again. Tips are available in predetermined temperatures up to 800°F. These irons are easy for beginners to use because the temperature is automatically maintained for you, however, as your skills increase, you may prefer to control the amount of heat yourself for different soldering situations. The limited amount of control may become frustrating as your soldering skills increase. With this type of iron you will likely encounter "cold spots" where the iron will not melt your solder. These cold spots occur when heat is being drawn out of the tip faster than it is being replenished. You will need an iron with a minimum of 100 watts.

The Weller 100 is one of these irons.

Stainless Steel Heater Technology

These are nice stable irons. Best to use them with a separate controller. The biggest advantage is if you drop this iron it does not have a ceramic element that is very easily going to break. These are little workhorses.

Weller SPG80 Soldering Iron (stainedglassexpress.com)

100 Watt Pro Soldering Iron (stainedglassexpress.com)

Everyone is always asking what to do with scrap glass.

January

Make a pot melt.

This is from GrandRidge Glass

February

Make a heart. Put a magnet on the back or fuse in a ring to hang.

March

Make it tiny and use up scraps.

From Stubridge Yankee Workshop

April

Eggs, foiled or fused. Ideas are endless.

From Justin Urbantas on

Stained Glass Arts and Addicts

colibriglass.com

May

This by Lee Ann on Stained Glass Addicts. A table top. Mosaics always a good way to use scrap.

How cute is this from Anything Stained Glass

June

Start doing some fun garden stuff.

Sorry, I don't remember where I got this picture to give credit.

July

Go out to the yard sales and find an old frame to mosaic, fuse to foil.

From Glasscrafter.com

August

Imagine little strips like this hanging outside.

September

October

November

From Crafty Chica

December