How can I tell if a Messy Color is a transparent, opaque, or opal?

Creation is Messy organize their colors in more ways than just "by color"!

All of Creation is Messy colors fall into one of the following categories:

• Opaques (Effetre calls these "pastels")
• Opals (of the variety that turn opaque-ish after annealing- similar to Effetre's "opalinos" or "alabasters")
• Milky Opals
• Misty Opals
• Moonstones
• Cloudy Transparents
• Transparents

These categories are not just about color, but also about the behavior of the glass.  Moonstones, for example, are etch resistant. Opals turn "opaque-ish" when annealed while misty/milky opals will not.

 comparison photo by Jenefer Ham

How are CiM item numbers organized?

CiM item numbers are composed of three parts. The first three digits "511" are the manufacturer code designated for Creation is Messy by Frantz Art Glass (in the same way that 591 indicates Effetre, 791 indicates Vetrofond, etc.)

An example of a Messy Color tag on a rod label

The fourth digit indicates one of the different families of colors as follows:
1 red
2 orange
3 yellow

4 green

5 blue
6 purple
7 brown
8 neutral
9 pink

The last two digits indicate a number for the color.

All Messy Color rods are between 4 and 7 mm in diameter. Some Messy Colors are available in thinner or fatter diameters. To indicate diameters that are not 4-7 mm in our item number system, they add an -S after the initial six digits of the item number. Further numbers indicate size as follows:

-S01 1-2 mm
-S02 2-3 mm
-S04 4-6 mm
-S06 6-8 mm
-S08 8-10 mm

An example of a tag on a Messy Color large diameter rod

An example of a Messy Limited Run tag on a rod

 

 

 

TAKE CARE TO MAKE IT LAST--SOLDING IRONS

Ending up with a great looking project so often depends on your soldering.  Having skill at soldering is one thing and caring for your soldering equipment is another.

The part of your iron most apt to cause trouble is the tip. If the tip develops a crack or a hole, that is the end.  It will just disintegrate.  To make your tip last, keep it tinned to prevent oxidation.  A clean tip will give you better heat transfer.   Even if you are done for the day, tin the tip.  That will keep air away and keep oxidation away. 

 It is important.  The first thing is to keep the tip tinned.  Tinned means keeping it coated with a layer of solder.  This will keep your tip intact and make your solder melt and flow evenly and smoothly. 

Hakko FS 100 Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner

To tin the tip

Heat up the iron

Wipe the heated iron over your sponge or other cleaner you may be using.

Apply solder to the tip and allow it to coat the surface. 

Wipe off the excess on your sponge. 

Another useful supply for cleaning your tip is sal ammoniac. It is made of ammonium chloride, comes in a block and is great for cleaning your iron.  You still need to tin it. 

 

 

Sal Ammoniac Tinning Block

One simple maintenance tip is loosen your tip routinely and make sure it is not getting stuck in the barrel.

Despite your best efforts, you may have to replace your iron.  The cheaper the iron the quicker it will need to be replaced.  Crafters new to the craft may have purchased a low-cost iron not knowing if they will stick with it.  Most of these have a short warranty and pretty much last the length of the warranty.  Most often, parts are not available for the cheaper irons.  Once they are not working correctly—time to go. 

If you have a higher quality iron, and it is not working properly, you may want to replace it.  Some have ceramic elements and if you drop the iron the element can break and it will stop working.  They are replaceable, but I hear it is a lot of work.  If you like to do that sort of thing, it probably is worth getting the parts and making the repair.

If your tip gets frozen in the barrel you are pretty much done.  You will probably need a new iron.

If your power cord is damaged, you should get a new iron.  It may stop working and if it continues working it is dangerous.

 

Making Fused Glass Snowflakes

 

 

Picture by The Avenue Stained Glass

 

To make these amazing snowflakes, you will need:

A snowflake mold

Primer brush

Small measuring spoons

Digital Scale

Zyp primer

Assorted fine and medium frits (96 or 90 COE)

Dichroic frit flakes

You can watch a Youtube video here:  Making Snowflakes with Colour de Verre Molds - Bing video

 

 

 

Colour de Verre snowflakes are amazing.  They are great as an ornament or gift, or you can use them as embellishments on other projects. 

Colour de Verre introduced the first snowflake mold in 2012. Both the 2012 and 2013 molds are being retired soon.  If you have one, lucky you!  They are so scarce, we can’t find any. 

 

 

The 2017 snowflakes are the largest at 5.5 inches.  There are two separate molds, one released in January and one in December. 

The 2016 is also large and you get two designs.

Colour De Verre 2015 Snowflake Mold (stainedglassexpress.com)

 

 

Colour De Verre 2014 Snowflake Mold (stainedglassexpress.com)

 

 

Colour de Verre recommends that all of their molds be prepped with Zyp spray.

 

Intermediate / Advanced

How To:

Frame Stained Glass Panels using Zinc Came

"Came" is a channel made from a variety of metals and is available in various shapes. The two most commonly used metals used to manufacture came are lead and zinc. We carry multiple sizes of both Zinc Came and Lead Came on our website. Zinc Came is available in different widths. The wider the width, the stronger it is. Zinc Came is rigid and can be a challenge to cut. It lends itself well to geometric shapes. When used as a border for a stained glass panel, it will provide a nice clean, strong edge to that panel. Choose a width based on the look of your piece as well as the size. “U” Came / Capping Came is easier to work with but has little strength. Materials & Tools Needed:

1. Your Stained Glass Panel
2. Your choice of Zinc Came
3. Your choice of hangers (we show Handy Hangers in this tutorial)
4. Ceiling Tile or equivalent heat resistant work surface
5. Push Pins (Straight Edges – Optional)
6. Sharpie
7. Ruler / Measuring Tool
8. Fine toothed Hack Saw or Came Saw (Miter Box – Optional)
9. Metal File
10. (Masking or Electrical Tape - Optional)
11. Soldering Iron, Stand, and Damp Sponge
12. 60/40 Solder
13. Flux and Flux Brush

Note: Click on photos to view them larger!

Note: Steps will not always happen in order, especially measuring and cutting. You will be going back and forth!

Measuring the Came: Cut a short piece (1” to 2”) of your Came to use as a marking gauge. Lay it over another piece of came (both pieces are laying on their side as though they were on a finished piece!) and mark the width of the gauge (both sides) onto the gauge came. Draw a diagonal from corner to corner of these marks. This will give you a 45° line to cut on.

Making an accurate mitered edge

Place a length of came on the bottom edge of your panel. Place your mitered gauge next to it so the end of the center channel lines up with the end of the glass panel. Mark the 45° angle onto the frame came piece.

Using gauge came to measure and mark frame cameAfter cutting, you can see the center channel lines up with the end of the glass panel

Cutting the Came: Note: After all this, you may find that a Miter Box will simplify this process! Place the blade of your saw over the cut line and saw straight down. Let the saw blade do the work, do not force the cut. Cut all sides and make allowances for hangers. Dress each cut with a file to remove any burrs and to fine tune the angle that you cut.

Filing the came

Look at that beautifully fitted mitered edge!

Hangers, Part 1: Plan ahead for what type of hanger you will use. We recommend Handy Hangers, which require a tiny modification to the top piece of zinc came. See the three-step photo below that shows a small notch filed off the top piece. When dry-fit together, the Handy Hanger will slide down into the side piece of zinc through that notch (note that it is shown flat in the second picture, and is then rotated sideways in the third photo to fit into the side.) Making room for a Handy Hanger Soldering the Zinc Came Frame: NOTE: Soldering Zinc requires more heat than copper foil. Dry fit the sides to your stained glass panel and secure in place with pins.

(Popsicle Sticks can be used as shims under the glass, if tipping is noticed.)

NOTE: Tape can be used to control/contain the solder. (If used, the tape must be stuck to the zinc prior to the flux application.) NOTE: Flux should be applied 1 joint at a time for best results. Side 1 : Solder each edge joint (all that are touching the side of the zinc came), working all the way around the 4 sides until all of the intersecting joints are soldered to the zinc came. Hangers, Part 2 : If using Handy Hangers, tin them and slide them into the notch you created. If using another hanging method, either make or prepare (modify) the hangers to fit into the vertical zinc channels. Tin the hangers and place them into the channels. They will be soldered in place at the same time as the corners are done. Corners : Apply a small amount of solder, using the chisel edge of the soldering iron, directly over the corner seam. Keep applying small amounts of solder in this manner until you see that it has penetrated the seam.

Details of angled soldering iron and finished and unfinished joints

Side 2 : Carefully flip your panel and repeat the same process as Side 1. Finishing : Clean the panel thoroughly. If needed, oooo Steel Wool can be used on the Zinc Came to brighten it or remove oxidation caused by the flux. If you Patina your panel, your best results will be achieved by using “JAX” Pewter Black. Wax and hang. Cleaners and Polishing (stainedglassexpress.com) Note: Completed panels can be heavy. Use a chain or cable that will easily support its weight. Sources: Everything Stained Glass – Molly Frances Ezine Articles – Maurine Summy Living Sun Glass – Samantha Calder James A Veilleux Researched, Interpreted and Arranged By: James A Veilleux 04/05/2023

How to Effectively Solder

Stained Glass

By James Veilleux

Note: Soldering Stained Glass can be a fun but sometimes frustrating process. There is a definite learning curve involved but, with time and practice, the end result will be worth the effort. In order to even begin the soldering process, you need to have the right tools to successfully create a stained glass piece.

Below are the 7 essential items necessary to Effectively Solder Stained Glass

1. Soldering Iron

The soldering Iron is the most important tool that you will need to solder stained glass. The soldering iron is used to melt the solder that will fuse the foiled stained glass pieces together. It is important to use a high-quality soldering iron, preferably with a means of controlling the temperature, to make the soldering process successful and increase the soldering iron's longevity. The soldering iron should be hot enough to allow the solder to flow over the seam of the foiled glass pieces. Too much heat will allow the solder to pass through the seam and possibly crack the glass. Soldering Irons & Accessories (stainedglassexpress.com)

2. Solder

Solder is a metal alloy that is used to join metal parts together. Solder comes in different variations, but for stained glass, the best choice is a solid-core wire solder. However, you will need to choose the solder that works best for your project or piece. Solder is usually made of Tin and one or two other metals such as Lead, Copper, or Silver. Solder comes in both Lead and Lead-Free variations. Stained glass uses solid solder with an external flux. 60/40 Solder is typically used for stained glass projects. The first number is the percentage of Tin (SN) while the second number represents the percentage of Lead (PB). 50/50 Solder is sometimes used for certain applications and requires more heat to work due to the increased lead content. Solder (stainedglassexpress.com)

3. Flux

Flux is the chemical solution that is used to clean and join the metals. It helps the solder flow with the Copper Foil or Came. It is placed on the joint before the soldering begins to create a strong bond and hold. Flux comes in either a liquid, gel, or paste form. You will need to find a flux that works with your solder. Flux comes in different forms including Organic Acid, Water-Soluble, Inorganic and other forms. Never use directly from the original container in order to preserve the strength of the flux. Soldering Flux (stainedglassexpress.com)

4. Sponge or Brass Wool

A Damp Sponge or Brass Wool specifically made for soldering is important to have on-hand to help while you solder to help preserve your soldering iron tips. When you solder a stained glass piece, you need to apply solder throughout the process or project. However, before adding any solder to your soldering iron, you need to clean the tip by lightly dragging it across a slightly damp sponge or inserting it into dry brass wool to remove the oxides and re-tin the tip. This needs to be repeated throughout the soldering process when you notice that the tip has oxidized (blackened).

5. Flux Applicator or Brush

A Flux Brush or Applicator (Q-Tip)is used to apply the Flux onto the metal areas to be joined. The Flux Brush can last a long time if rinsed at the end of each soldering session. If not rinsed, the flux will stay active and corrode the bristles and metal handle of the brush. Flux Brush 12 Pack (stainedglassexpress.com)

6. Heat Resistant Surface

You will need a Flat, Burn-Resistant surface to work on your soldering project. This surface should allow pins to be used for the purpose of securing your stained glass project from movement. A ceiling tile is a good choice for this surface. Always use the unpainted side to work on.

7. Gloves and Mask

If you are using Leaded Solder, it is important to wear chemical resistant gloves at a minimum. A Mask and Safety Glasses are recommended for protection from all flux fumes and solder splatter. We also highly recommend keeping Heavy Metal removing soap on hand at all times.

Credit for Info:

Amerway

Canfield

Novacan

Stellar Technical Products

Researched, Interpreted and Arranged By: James A Veilleux 03/08/2023

SAFETY

June is National Safety month.

Hopefully it is not a surprise that we are an industry that should be tuned into our personal safety. Not only do we deal with lead, but we also deal with lots of dangerous chemicals.

FLUX

Flux is one of the worst we deal with. It contains acids, sometimes solvents and other chemicals. We heat it up and create fumes. If you are not careful, you will be breathing these fumes. Set yourself up with a fume trap or at the very least something that is blowing the fumes away from you.

Weller Fume Trap Smoke Absorber

It is a little tough to do as you don’t want to cool your solder prematurely. Every chemical has an SDS (Safety Data Sheet) that is readily available. If you are concerned about the flux you use, ask for the SDS or look it up online. You will have all (or more) the information you could possibly want.

SOLDER

Solder is made with lead (unless you are using lead-free). I don’t know anyone who wears gloves when soldering. People generally have the soldering iron in one hand and a strip of solder wire in the other. Lead is absorbed through your skin so that is the real health issue there. If you are not going to wear gloves, then wash your hands after use with heavy metal soap. Years ago, we had Safety Works in doing some safety testing for us. He told me to get the soap and have it at the sinks and then sell it and not be bashful about pushing it on people. They are touching lead and they need it! So, yes, we have it in our bathrooms and at our classroom sink and we sell it. So here it is. You need this so buy it and use it! Don’t eat where you solder. Just don’t. If you are making something that people are going to handle (jewelry, nightlight, boxes), use lead-free solder. We have gotten great feedback on this Amerway Tourmaline Lead Free Solder. It is the shiniest!

GLASS HANDLING

Stained glass people love to pick up a big sheet of glass and hold it over their head and look through it. DON’T DO THAT! If it breaks it is breaking into your open eyes! Don’t let glass slide down in your hands. That cut will need more than a band aid. In our retail store, we take care to push the glass into the display cubbies every day. We don’t put short sheets down into the record racks where people can skin their hands trying to get the pieces out. We put the taller glass to the back so people are not reaching over it. We are checking the scrap glass all the time as it is sharp and pointed. Wear glasses when cutting and grinding. Wear gloves for glass handling. Wear a dust mask when using glues and powders. This is supposed to be fun. Stay safe!

Glass is made from sand, limestone and sodium carbonate. To get stained (colored) glass, other minerals are added.

Glass Pigments

Compounds	Colors
iron oxides	greens, browns
manganese oxides	deep amber, amethyst, decolorizer
cobalt oxide	deep blue
gold chloride	ruby red
selenium compounds	reds
carbon oxides	amber/brown
a mix of manganese, cobalt, iron	black
antimony oxides	white
uranium oxides	yellow-green (glows!)
sulfur compounds	amber/brown
copper compounds	light blue, red
tin compounds	white
lead with antimony	yellow

Because these minerals are in the glass, they can react with one another when they come in contact. Some products have been developed for just that purpose. Oceanside has frit and glass called Red Reactive transparent and Red Reactive opal. It will react with any glass that has copper in it. It will give a deep reddish color where the reactive frit and copper-bearing glass intersect. Oceanside Compatible Red Reactive Opal Coarse Frit 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Compatible Red Reactive Opal Frit Fine 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Compatible Red Reactive Opal Frit Medium 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Compatible Red Reactive Opal Powder Frit 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Compatible Red Reactive Transparent Frit Coarse 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Compatible Red Reactive Transparent Frit Fine 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Compatible Red Reactive Transparent Frit Medium 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Compatible Red Reactive Transparent Frit Powder 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Red Reactive Opal Stringer 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Red Reactive Transparent Noodles 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Oceanside Red Reactive Transparent Stringer 96 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Sulfur-bearing products will also react with copper bearing products. The link below will bring you to Oceanside’s Reactive charts. Reactive Guide – Oceanside Art Glass (oceansidecompatible.com) Vanilla Cream is a high sulfur content glass that is also reactive, it even changes from within. After full fusing the inside of the glass stays its pre-fused off-white color while the outside brightens to a vivid warm white. Oceanside Vanilla Cream Opal Glass (stainedglassexpress.com) Bullseye also has reactive products. Bullseye Reactive Cloud Opal Frit- Medium 90 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) Bullseye Reactive Cloud Opal Frit- Powder 90 COE (stainedglassexpress.com) This is a link to the Reactive Potential of Bullseye Glass. It is truly amazing and very fun to play with these combinations. Reactive Glass Chart.pdf (amazonaws.com)

MODELING GLASS

Ever wish you could get more detail on a project? Modeling Clay is the answer. It was developed by Glass Bird Studios. It is a two-part kit that has a powdered binder and liquid medium. It is mixed with water and your own powdered glass or frit. Once it is mixed, it is the consistency of clay and you can work it like clay. It is food safe and non-toxic. You can pretty much do everything with it that you do with clay. Roll it, cut out shapes, put in silicone molds. You can then fire to a tack and get amazing detail.

Glass Bird Modeling Glass Starter Kit (stainedglassexpress.com) Lois Manno, the owner and developer of Glass Bird Modeling Glass, is a talented, experienced artist. Her love of nature shows in her artwork. She is most known for her feathers made from Modeling Glass.

This incredible image is made by Bob Leatherbarrow, who is one of our industry’s amazing artist and teacher. He created the lines with Modeling Glass.

See more of this work at www.leatherbarrowglass.com

SPECIALITY FRITS

Frit is crushed glass, ranging in particle size from a fine powder to fine, medium, coarse and mosaic. It is made from crushed, screened and cleaned COE tested sheet glass. It is used by artists as a coloring agent or used to created decorative effects when blowing glass or fusing. Often used to achieve the effect of painting on glass.

Metallic Irid Frit

Metallic Frit is to give a silver/gold metallic shimmer in fused work. Doesn’t look like much in the bottle but once fused it will stand out. It IS different from rainbow irid frit. It looks best over dark colors or black to achieve the dramatic multi-layer metallic shimmer. It is available in Medium, Coarse and Mosaic sizes.

Clear Rainbow Irid Frit

Rainbow Iridized adds a mother of pearl shimmer to your fused work. It is made from Iridized glass which has a surface treatment where a layer of metallic oxide is bonded to the hot glass surface just after the sheet forming, resulting in a colorful, shimmering effect.

Red Reactive Frit

Comes in both opal and transparent. This frit works with chemistry and heat to create stunning effects. Red Reactive has elements that will react to the metal content in other colors and create unique color shifts and rings. A normal reaction would be a very thin line in a reddish hue around the added glass embellishments. Reactive Guide – Oceanside Art Glass (oceansidecompatible.com)

DICHROIC FRIT

(this info from Coatings by Sanburg)

Dichroic coating is made by melting Quartz Crystal and Metal Oxides. These Materials are vaporized with an electron beam gun, and the vapor then attaches and condenses onto the surface of the glass, forming a crystal structure comprised of as many as 30 layers. Dichroic frit is not sheets of glass with a dichroic coated smashed up. It is already frit and then it is coated with a dichroic coating. That means that more of the surface is coated. Approximately 80%. It also comes in colors but the black and the clear are the most popular.

All credit for this blog entry goes to Bethlehem Burners. This is from their website. Helpful Tips from Bethlehem Tip # 1: Do not use force when cleaning your torch. Using extra force when cleaning your hypo tubes may cause internal damage to the torch. Such as scraping or breaking the hypo tubes which can lead to internal premixing. Only use gentle strokes and only use smooth wires. Cleaning wires with barbs or deep ridges on them will scrape and scratch the inside of the torch hypo tubes, weakening them over time. If you cannot clear an obstruction with the cleaning wires provided, please call us for assistance. (610) 838-7034 Tip # 2: Heat Tint Bethlehem Burners uses 303 stainless steel for the burner faceplates and torch barrels. Stainless steel develops a tint or coloring when the metal is exposed to heat and air. Heat tint found at the face and around the front of the torch barrel is to be expected and will darken with continued use. This discoloring is normal and purely cosmetic. Tip # 3: Removing Heat Tint Removing heat tint is not required maintenance for proper torch use. If the flame worker would like to remove the heat tint, simply rub a plastic dish-scrubbing pad (Scotch Brite) in a circular motion, until the heat tint has been removed. DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL. Steel wool will scratch the metal of the torch. Tip # 4: DO NOT SHOCK YOUR TORCH. Placing a hot torch face in cold water to “shock” trapped glass free from the torch will weaken the torches connection sites. Metal expands and contrasts when heated and cooled, therefore any connection site on the torch formed by fusing metals together, will become weakened if the metals have been heated and then cooled rapidly (shocked). Tip # 5: Do not use wires to remove glass Do not use the provided wires to remove glass. If glass becomes lodged inside the torch ports, please contact Bethlehem Apparatus for expert advice on how to remove the glass. (610) 838-7034 Tip # 6: Ask us about your torch! If you find yourself questioning what to do about your torch, give us a call and we will be glad to help! (610) 838-7034 TORCH CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS The working life of a Bethlehem torch is greatly enhanced when properly cleaned. Removal of carbon deposits on the face of the burner will prevent hot spots and deliver a clean particle free flame. Our new Stainless steel torches (Alpha, Bravo, Champion) have more oxygen ports in proportion to gas ports. This prevents carbon build-up; therefore these models do not require cleanings as often as our previous models. Step 1. Shutoff torch and allow cooling down for 10 minutes. Step 2. Gently brush the torch face in a back and forth and up and down motion for about 6 minutes. Step 3. Clean gas & oxygen ports with the two wires provided. Using the small wire for the smaller oxygen ports and the larger wire for the larger gas ports, located on the front face of the torch. The pentagon shaped center fire has 6 thin walled stainless steel hypo tubes. The hypo tubes deliver gas and the surrounding ports deliver the oxygen. NEVER USE COPPER, GLASS STRINGERS, TOOTH PICKS, OR ANY OBJECT THAT CAN BREAK AND CLOG THE PORT. Step 4. Turn on the torch with a lot of gas and oxygen and hit the underside of the torch with the supplied wooden dowel (never use a hard object to jar out any dust and carbon that may have entered the gas and or the oxygen ports during steps 1 and 2. Step 5. Shutoff torch and allow cooling for 10 minutes. Step 6. Brush torch face again, same as step 2. Step 7. Turn on torch with a lot of gas and oxygen and hit the underside of the torch to jar out any dust and carbon that may have entered the gas or oxygen ports during the brushing and wire cleaning cycle. Step 8. Shutoff torch, torch is now all clean and ready for your next days work.

FUSING GLASS BOTTLES OR “HIDING THE EVIDENCE” Don’t you just hate to throw out those wine and liquor bottles? They are quite nice with the graceful shapes and the beautiful colors. Make them into fused art! First (and most important) step is to clean them. The labels and any glue must be completely removed to be sure that no residue is fused onto the glass. Use very hot water with ½ cup baking soda and 1 tablespoon of dish soap. Submerge them in the water and let them soak for 10 minutes then add 2 cups of white wine vinegar. Roll your bottles around so the vinegar mixes in. Let them soak until you can get the labels off. Once the bottles are clean you have some options. You can just lay it in the kiln and full fuse it. This one just has a little decorative wiring and some etching. You could add a decorative knife and have a nice little gift. Another option is to use a bottle mold. There are all types available. See the full collection here. There are textured molds. The one above has a lovely Tree of Life motif. Drop molds, such as the one above, make an interesting shape. You also can use a textured flat mold, such as the one below, and then slump it into a bottle mold. You may get devitrification with some bottles. To prevent it, spay with a divit spray like Spray A.